As soon as the days get shorter and the heating comes on, conditions for your succulents change all at once: less light, dry air and cold window panes. At the same time, most species slow their growth right down. If you keep watering as you did in summer, you risk rot – and if you put the plants in a dark corner, you get long, pale shoots. In this guide we show you how to overwinter succulents properly: bright, cool and (almost) dry.
Why succulents need a winter rest
Most succulents come from regions with pronounced dry seasons and cool, dry winters. For us, that means very little growth in winter and a sharp drop in water demand. The plant then lives off the water stored in its leaves. If you keep adding water regularly, the substrate cannot dry out and the roots start to rot. Wetness, not cold, is therefore the most common reason succulents do not survive the winter.
The ideal winter spot
For a healthy winter rest, most succulents need four things:
- ☀️BrightThe brightest spot you have – ideally a south- or west-facing window.
- ❄️CoolAs a rule of thumb, aim for about 8 to 15 °C. Echeveria should not be kept permanently below 5 °C.
- 🌱Frost-freeMost succulents cannot tolerate frost. An unheated bright room, a stairwell with a window or a frost-free conservatory is ideal.
- 💨Draught-freeDirect contact with the cold window pane and cold draughts when airing the room are not good for the plants.
Dry heated air is not a problem for succulents in itself. It only becomes critical when it is warm and dark at the same time: the plants keep growing but do not get enough light and become etiolated. A spot directly above a radiator is therefore not a good idea.
Watering in winter
The most important rule: better too little than too much. Only water once the substrate has dried out completely. As a rough guide, water about every four to six weeks in a cool spot and about every two to three weeks in a warm living room. What matters, though, is not the calendar but the substrate – if in doubt, push a wooden stick into the soil and check whether it stays dry.
- Water at the edge and avoid getting water into the rosette – it collects there and promotes rot.
- Use pots with drainage holes and empty the saucer after watering.
- Do not fertilise in winter – the plants hardly grow anyway.
- Only repot in winter in an emergency; spring is a better time for that.
Lets you water precisely at the pot's edge without getting water into the rosette.
View current price on AmazonA permeable, mineral substrate saves you a lot of work because excess water drains away quickly. You can find out what the ideal mix looks like in our article The perfect soil for your succulents. You will find suitable mixes in our substrate mixes category.
Care plan by plant group
Not every succulent wants the same thing in winter. This overview helps you sort them out:
| Plant group | Winter location | Watering in winter |
|---|---|---|
| Echeveria, Graptoveria, Pachyveria | Very bright, about 8–15 °C, frost-free | Rarely, only when the substrate is completely dry |
| Lithops (Living Stones) | Very bright, cool, frost-free | Usually not at all – they live off their old leaves |
| Sempervivum and hardy Sedum species | Can stay outdoors, ideally protected from rain | Do not water outdoors; in pots only very rarely |
| String succulents (e.g. string of pearls) | Bright, cool to room temperature | Very sparingly, only when the substrate is dry |
| Tradescantia and Callisia | Bright, not below about 10 °C | Slightly more often than Echeveria, as soon as the top layer of soil has dried |
Light: windowsill and grow light
In winter, light is the scarcest factor. Place your succulents at the brightest window and turn the pots every one to two weeks so the plants grow evenly. If daylight is not enough – for example in a north-facing room or during weeks of gloomy weather – a full-spectrum LED grow light is a good addition. Position it above the plants at the distance recommended by the manufacturer. A consistent lighting duration is important: lamps with a built-in timer are practical; alternatively, a switchable socket with a schedule makes sure the light goes on and off at the same time every day.
Makes up for missing daylight in winter. Keep to the distance recommended by the manufacturer.
View current price on AmazonSwitches your grow light on and off at the same time every day.
View current price on AmazonTypical winter problems
- Lower leaves shrivel and drop: This is normal in winter and no cause for concern as long as the rosette itself stays firm.
- Plant becomes long and pale: A clear sign of lack of light. Move it somewhere brighter and cooler.
- Leaves turn soft, glassy or mushy: It has been too wet. Keep the plant dry, stop watering for now and cut off rotten parts with a clean knife.
- Mealybugs: White, cotton-like deposits in the leaf axils. Dab them off with a cotton bud soaked in alcohol and keep the plant separate until it is free of pests again.
- Fungus gnats: They love moist substrate. Let the soil dry out well and cover the surface with mineral material.
When non-hardy plants need to come indoors
If your succulents spent the summer outdoors, they should move inside at the latest when night temperatures drop towards 5 °C. It is better to act a little earlier – and to protect the plants from persistent rain, because wetness combined with cold is especially risky. Check the plants thoroughly for pests when you bring them in, so you do not bring pests into the house. Houseleeks (Sempervivum) and some Sedum species, on the other hand, are hardy and can stay outside.
Checklist for winter quarters
- Brightest spot, frost-free and as cool as possible
- Only water when the substrate is completely dry
- Do not fertilise, do not repot
- Never get water into the rosette
- Check plants regularly for pests
- Use a grow light if there is too little daylight
Conclusion
Overwintering succulents is less complicated than it sounds: a bright, cool spot, very sparing watering and a bit of patience are enough for most species. In spring, when light and temperatures rise, your plants will then start the new season strongly. Feel free to browse our categories Echeveria, Sempervivum and Lithops – and if you would like to know more about caring for Echeveria, read our article The Art of Echeveria Care.
